The Complete Guide to Buying a Vintage Typewriter (And Why It Might Change How You Write Forever) - 2026

Last updated: January 2026

You typed something into a search engine looking for a vintage typewriter. Maybe you're a writer tired of staring at screens. Maybe you want something beautiful and mechanical on your desk. Maybe someone you love deserves a gift that lasts longer than a battery charge.

Whatever brought you here, I've been restoring and selling vintage typewriters for over a decade, and I've shipped more than 1,200 machines to writers, collectors, and gift-givers across the country. This guide contains everything I wish someone had told me when I started.

Why Writers Are Returning to Typewriters

The screens won. We carry them in our pockets, stare at them for work, and scroll through them before bed. And amidst this digital takeover, something unexpected is happening: writers are buying typewriters again. The pendulum swings the other way.

Not as decorations. As tools.

The reason is simple. A typewriter does one thing: it puts words on paper. It doesn't ping. It doesn't lure you into email or research. It doesn’t spy on you to sell your information or dog-ear you an infidel or dissident. It doesn't autocorrect your voice into something diluted.

When you sit down at a typewriter, you write. That's it. You write from the heart, the head, the soul. It’s YOUR writing.

I've received thousands of messages from customers over the years as they start to type. The theme is always the same:

I finally finished my book. I finally wrote that letter I'd been putting off. I finally sat with my own thoughts.

There's science behind this. The physical act of typing on a mechanical keyboard engages different parts of your brain than tapping glass. The permanence of ink on paper changes how you think about each sentence. The absence of a delete key teaches you to trust your first instincts.

In the journey, you’ll be forced to remember how to spell, how to use grammar, how to string thoughts together.

David McCullough, who wrote eleven books on a typewriter including two Pulitzer Prize winners, put it simply:

"I write with a typewriter because I like the feeling of making something."

But you didn't come here for philosophy. You came here to figure out which typewriter to buy.

The Golden Age: Why Typewriters from the 1940s-1960s Are The Best (IMHO)

Not all vintage typewriters are equal. The machines built between roughly 1937 and 1965 represent the pinnacle of typewriter engineering. Manufacturers had nearly a century of development behind them and no reason to cut corners. Earlier ones can be exquisite typing companions, they may just need a little more work or maintenance or piddling. Like driving to work in a Model T.

These machines were built to be repaired, not replaced. The metal components are stronger. The mechanisms are simpler. The tolerances are tighter.

Here's a detail that might stagger: many golden age typewriters are comprised of over 2,000 individual parts, yet a skilled technician can fully disassemble and reassemble one without a single screw left over. (They don’t, usually, as it isn’t necessary or known). Every component has a purpose. Every spring, lever, and pivot point was refined across decades of iteration.

This could seem intimidating, because one missing screw or spring out of hundreds can shut down a machine. But that rarely happens, and if the machine has passed through us, it NEVER happens. We track down parts and machines constantly to fill these little gaps.

We rescue machines from the graveyards of old mechanical obsolescence and place them on the desks of writers, resurrecting lost attention and passion for letters.

Planned obsolescence is a thing we’re at war with, like a few others small builders and makers; like every artist in the world (who still actually makes art instead of just tweeting about theories). Or X-ing?

Typewriters from the 1970s and 1980s often descend into the realm of convenience and plastic. They look similar but use cheaper materials. They aren’t so much designed to last forever, as the looming age of word processors and computers is just on the horizon. Plastic replaced metal. Shortcuts replaced craftsmanship. Earlier machines from the 1920s and 1930s can be beautiful, but the typing experience is often rougher—the engineers were still working out the kinks. Profit is a consideration. Cheaper build = more profit. Damn.

If you want a typewriter that types smoothly, requires minimal maintenance, and will outlast you, look for something from the golden age.

(One exception is the Selectrics from the 80’s… they’re are the pinnacles of electric typewriter technology, and just about NASA-grade innovations in a bulletproof metal shell).

Manual vs. Electric: A Decision That Matters

This is the first question to answer: do you want a manual or electric typewriter?

Manual typewriters require your fingers to do all the work. You press a key, a lever rises, it strikes the ribbon against the paper. The sensation is deeply satisfying in a way that's hard to describe until you experience it.

The sound alone changes how writing feels. Each keystroke produces a specific mechanical percussion—the clack of the typebar hitting the platen, the subtle ring of the bell at the margin, the zip-chunk of the carriage return. Harlan Ellison called it "the sound of thinking made physical."

Manuals require no electricity, produce no electronic hum, and have fewer parts to break. They're the typewriters that survived in attics and basements for fifty years and will still work (though they’ll need a service to actually WRITE).

Electric typewriters reduce the physical effort required. A motor assists each keystroke, making typing faster and less fatiguing. The IBM Selectric, with its famous "golf ball" type element, is the most sought-after electric typewriter ever made.

Electrics require power and have more components that can fail. But for extended typing sessions or anyone with hand fatigue, they're often the better choice. Productivity? Isaac Asimov wrote on an electric and claimed to hit 90 words per minute—producing over 500 books in his lifetime.

Most writers choose manuals. The mechanical connection between finger and page feels essential to the Screenless Writer™ experience. But there's no wrong answer.

The Selectrics are HUGE, by the way, weighing forty pounds at least and bulky to handle. Whereas a manual potable will carry around easily in the case. No dragging cords.

Still 20 pounds or so, unless you get into the ultra-portable realm.

Portable vs. Desktop: Understanding the Tradeoff

Typewriters come in two basic forms: portables (with a case) and desktops (meant to stay in one place).

Portable typewriters typically weigh 10-15 pounds and come with a carrying case. They're the machines writers took to cafes in Paris and cabins in Vermont. Hemingway lugged his Royal across Spain. Kerouac typed On the Road on a portable. A portable can live on a bookshelf when not in use and come out when inspiration strikes.

The best portables from the golden age type as smoothly as any desktop. The Hermes 3000, Olympia SM series, and Olivetti Lettera 32 rival machines twice their size.

Desktop typewriters are larger, heavier, and typically stay on a dedicated desk. 30-50 pounds or more. They often have longer carriages for wider paper, heavier frames for better stability, and more substantial key action. The weight itself becomes an advantage—the machine doesn't move when you're typing fast. But they’re riskier to ship. Whenever I buy one from an uninformed online seller, they arrive half poking out of the box. The sheer weight just makes for a bumpy ride and flimsy boxes don’t do the part (we use 250 pound load-tested double-walled boxes with eco-friendly packing that we’ve refined for years).

If you have a dedicated writing space and want the most robust typing experience, a desktop makes sense.

If you want flexibility, a portable gives up nothing.

Some machines, like this Olivetti Studio 44, beautifully bridge the cap between the two. It’s a larger portable, which comes in a large case. But has a steadier feel than its little sibling, the Lettera 32.

And the Underwood Standard (No.5 - 12) was made for decades, and stands out as probably the most iconic desktop in history. You’ll see Mrs. Lemon using on in Poirot stories.

The Typeface Question / The Font Question

This can shock and chagrin many people new to typewriters. But I’ll just lay the truth on you. Open wide.

I rarely get questions about font or typeface, because people don’t often consider it.

Here's the truth that surprises most people: unlike a computer, you can't change a typewriter's font. Each machine has one typeface, permanently. The letters are cast in metal on the ends of the typebars. What you see is what you get—forever. (There are a few exceptions).

This sounds like a limitation. It's actually a gift.

You can’t procrastinate by messing with fonts for hours. You just focus on the writing.

Every typewriter has its own voice. A Hermes 3000 types in a clean, uniform way that looks almost modern. An Olympia SM produces crisp, authoritative letters with sharp serifs. A Royal from the 1950s has a slightly rounded, friendly character. An Underwood No. 5 types in that classic "old typewriter" face you recognize from vintage documents; slight variance letter to letter.

The typeface becomes part of the machine's personality. Writers often choose typewriters partly based on how the letters look on the page. Some want crisp and professional. Others want that unmistakably vintage look—slightly uneven, full of character.

There's also the question of pica versus elite. Pica types 10 characters per inch—larger, bolder letters. Elite types 12 characters per inch—smaller, fitting more words per line. Most vintage typewriters are pica. Elite machines exist but are less common. Neither is better; it's preference.

The one exception is the IBM Selectric. Because it uses interchangeable "golf ball" elements, you can swap typefaces. One machine can type in Courier, then switch to Prestige Elite, then to Script. Selectric collectors often accumulate dozens of elements. But for manual typewriters, the typeface is fixed—and that's part of what makes each machine unique.

When you type on a vintage typewriter, no one else's words look exactly like yours. The slight variations in strike pressure, the specific letterforms, the particular way your machine prints the letter "e"—it's yours.

That's not a limitation. That's a signature.

I have a 1923 Hammond that you can change the typeface on, called ‘the shuttle.’ Early iteration on this thing that IBM Mastered with the Selectric Type Ball. There are hundreds of typefaces available for those.

Here are a few typefaces samples:

Understanding Typewriter Condition and Restoration

A vintage typewriter from eBay or an antique store is a gamble. These machines are 60-80 years old. Without proper service, most sit gathering dust with dried lubricants, stuck keys, and ribbons that stopped working decades ago.

The original oils inside these machines have had six decades to turn thick and sticky. The rubber hardens and cracks. Dust settles into every crevice. A typewriter that "worked when grandma used it" in 1975 has been sitting for fifty years since then. The typeslugs are caked with ink. Sometimes, critical parts are missing and you can’t even tell. Amateurs often ‘work’ on the machines, rendering them useless, and then sell them ‘as is.’ Without mentioning the ‘leftover’ parts.

Professional restoration involves complete disassembly, cleaning of every mechanism, replacement of worn parts, and precise adjustment of dozens of settings. It's the difference between a machine that might plunk out letters here and there and one that will type page after page beautifully for years or decades (or forever).

Typewriters don’t like sitting. The more you use them, the better they’ll work. (Like the human body?)

When evaluating any vintage typewriter, ask these questions:

• Has it been professionally serviced?

• Have the platens (rubber rollers) been replaced or are they original?

• What warranty or guarantee is offered?

A $200 typewriter that needs $600 in repairs is not a bargain. Because finding a repair person anymore is not as easy as it used to be. And until they’re deep in a machine, what it really needs is hard to say. Again, missing parts are hard to spot and diagnose. A little screw or a spring is sitting in the attic that Grandma’s machine needs to run.

The Models Worth Your Attention

After restoring thousands of typewriters, certain models have proven themselves repeatedly. These aren't the only good typewriters, but they're the ones I'd recommend without hesitation.

How to Use Olympia SM3 - Video Tutorial

Olivetti Lettera 32 (Italian, 1963-1984)

The Lettera 32 was designed by Marcello Nizzoli and remains a masterpiece of industrial design. It's one of the most portable serious typewriters ever made and types with surprising authority for its size.

The Lettera 32 is visually iconic and historically rich, having passed over the desks of Leonard Cohen, Bob Dylan, Thomas Pynchon, Cormac McCarthy, and others. I've used one to great effect as well.

Cormac McCarthy wrote most of his novels on an Olivetti Lettera 32. All the maintenance he claims to have done, after millions of words, was to blow the dust out with an air compressor. When his original Lettera was auctioned in 2009, it sold for $254,500—making it the most expensive typewriter ever sold. If it's good enough for Blood Meridian, it's probably good enough for your memoir.

When these are available, we have them here.

Lettera 32 - How to Use Typewriter - Video Guide

Underwood No. 5 (American, 1900-1930s)

The Underwood No. 5 is the typewriter you picture when you hear the word "typewriter." These large desktop machines defined the form and typed millions of documents through two world wars. At their peak, Underwood controlled 75% of the American typewriter market.

The No. 5 weighs about 25 pounds. The keys require more force than modern machines. The carriage return is a full-arm motion. Writing on one feels like operating industrial equipment—in the best possible way.

An Underwood on your desk is a statement. The typing experience connects you directly to a century of American writers.

When these are available, we have them here.

How to Use Underwood Number 5 Typewriter - Complete Video Demonstration

What to Expect from Pricing

Vintage typewriters span a wide price range depending on model, condition, and whether they've been professionally restored.

Unrestored machines ($0-500): These are project machines or decorations. Expect issues. Some can be made to ‘work’ at a lower standard with cleaning and a new ribbon. Many cannot without professional service. (I’ve gotten them for $15 (a Lettera 32 that also came with a crutch and a chair) and for $1500 (Maroon Silent and some Hermes 3000s). For us it is a little less risk because our techs can fix almost anything. Though that Maroon Silent needed 6 hours to even work.

Mostly, we recommend a WORKING machine so that you can use it to create your lifetime literary work without worrying about how many techs are still extant.

Here it is in all glory:

Entry-level restored ($500-700): A working typewriter from a reputable restorer with a guarantee. Perfect for someone who wants to try typewriting without major investment.

Mid-range restored ($1,000-1,800): Premium models professionally restored with attention to cosmetic detail. These are the machines serious writers choose.

Collector-grade restored ($2,200-3,000+): Exceptional examples of the best models, meticulously restored with extended warranties. Machines in this range are investments as much as tools.

The difference between tiers isn't just cosmetics. It varies by model but… Higher-tier restorations typically include more thorough mechanical work, more exhaustive replacement of wear items like rubber, and longer guarantees. These prices have been refined for almost 10 years.

The Restoration Process: What Professional Service Actually Involves

A proper vintage typewriter restoration takes 2-3 weeks and involves:

Complete disassembly - Every component removed, labeled, and cleaned individually. On a Hermes 3000, this means removing and cataloging over 2,000 parts.

Mechanism cleaning - Removal of 60+ years of dried oils, dust, and debris from every pivot point and bearing. The original lubricants have turned to something resembling tree sap.

Parts replacement - New rubber feet, fresh ribbon, replacement of any worn springs or broken components. Springs lose tension over decades. Rubber petrifies.

Platen assessment - The rubber roller that holds paper deteriorates over time. Hard, cracked platens require replacement or reconditioning. A rock-hard platen won't grip paper properly and produces uneven type impressions.

Alignment calibration - Every typeslug adjusted for perfect strike alignment. There are 44 keys on most typewriters, each with upper and lowercase characters. That's 88 individual alignment adjustments.

Key tension adjustment - Each key balanced for consistent pressure across the keyboard. Your pinky shouldn't have to work harder than your index finger.

Carriage tuning - Smooth travel and proper margin settings.

Testing - Extended typing on multiple paper types to verify performance. A properly restored typewriter should feel effortless.

This is labor-intensive work that requires specialized knowledge. A restoration shop might work on thousands of machines before they've seen every variation of every problem.

Parts - Sometimes we also have to wait on rare parts from a variety of sellers.

Care and Maintenance: Keeping Your Typewriter Healthy

Vintage typewriters are remarkably low-maintenance when properly restored.

Here's what they need:

Keep them covered when not in use. A simple dust cover prevents the accumulation that gums up mechanisms. The enemy isn't use—it's dust. Use is the friend.

Use fresh ribbons - Old ribbons dry out and produce faint, uneven type. A new ribbon transforms how a machine writes. Universal ribbons fit most vintage machines and cost under $20. We have them here. (Most of the machines we sell use the ‘universal’ size).

Clean the typeslugs periodically. Ink builds up in letter impressions, especially on closed letters like "e," "o," and "a." A dry brush or specialized cleaner keeps type crisp. Some writers use a bit of poster putty pressed against the type face.

Don't oil anything unless you know exactly what you're doing. Modern lubricants can damage vintage mechanisms—they're often too thin and migrate where they shouldn't go. If your typewriter needs service, take it to a professional.

Type regularly. Typewriters in use stay healthy. The movement keeps mechanisms from seizing. Machines that sit for years develop problems.

That's really it. No updates, no subscriptions, no planned obsolescence.

Buying a Typewriter as a Gift

Typewriters make exceptional gifts for writers, creatives, and anyone who appreciates craft. But they're not like buying a book or a sweater. Here are considerations:

Allow lead time. Quality restored typewriters are often made-to-order. A 2-3 week window is typical.

Consider size. A portable with a case stores easily. A desktop requires dedicated space—and a sturdy desk.

Think about the recipient. A serious writer might appreciate a premium Hermes 3000. A curious beginner might prefer an entry-level machine to try before investing more.

Include supplies. A spare ribbon and some quality paper complete the gift beautifully.

The feedback I hear most often from gift recipients: This is the most thoughtful gift I've ever received.

Questions to Ask Any Typewriter Seller

Before purchasing any vintage typewriter, ask:

1. Has this machine been professionally restored or just cleaned?

2. What specific work was performed?

3. What warranty or guarantee is included?

4. What is your return policy if I'm not satisfied?

5. How long have you been restoring typewriters?

Reputable sellers welcome these questions. Evasive answers should give you pause.

Why Professional Restoration Matters

I understand the temptation to buy an un-restored typewriter cheaply and "see if it works." (It’s how I got my first few). Sometimes you get lucky. More often, you get a machine that types poorly, has hidden problems, or breaks within weeks. (I had to get 7 to get my first working one).

Typewriter repair specialists are rare. Most were trained decades ago and are retiring. Some have low energy and / or are unreliable or slow on the turnaround. Many of the newer generation ones don’t know how a typewriter is really supposed to work. The average age of a professional typewriter technician in America is over 70. Finding someone to fix a problematic machine can mean months of searching and untold dollars including travel.

A properly restored typewriter with a guarantee eliminates this risk. If something goes wrong, you have recourse. If nothing goes wrong—and with proper care, nothing should—you have a machine that will serve you for decades.

The old adage applies: buy once, buy well.

Ready to Write?

I've spent over a decade restoring vintage typewriters and shipping them to writers across the country. Every machine I sell is professionally restored, tested, and guaranteed.

If you have questions about which model suits your needs, I'm happy to help. If you're ready to choose a typewriter, browse my current collection. Every machine includes a working guarantee, fresh ribbon, and care instructions.

The best typewriter is the one you'll actually use. Start there and trust the process.

Steven Budden
Classic Typewriter Co.
The Trusted Source of Professionally Restored Vintage Typewriters Since 2016

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